Coconut Woman

We were thirsty, while driving down from Mettur towards Thoppur to our final destination. On the Hill section towards Thoppur, (I would not dare call it a ghat section assuming that a hill section is lesser than a ghat section) close to Thoppur there were many small roadside outlets selling Tender Coconut water to passers by. We missed the first few and then almost stopped at one but decided against it. Due to rain that morning the road was slush and it would have been difficult to get off and enjoy the Tender Coconut water, we would have had to sit in the car rather than get down stretch our legs and enjoy the water strike up a conversation with the vendor and enrich myself. An important aspect of stopping on the indian Highways is to strike up a conversation, listen to local news, gossip and learn about rituals, traditions etc.

Tharaikanni the Coconut Woman

Further down we stopped at another roadside TC water pile. When I say pile, Yes a pile because all these micro outlets pile the coconuts along the road to attract vehicles. this particular pile of coconuts was like a magnet, the owner had chosen a great location, shady, lots of space, no other human in sight, broad road, seemed very nice. Just to make sure that the sun did not get to her the Coconut Woman had arranged coconut palms above on the branches of the tree this ensured complete shade. She had also under the shade a folding steel chair to sit on when there were no customers. She did have hundreds of coconuts for company a huge pile and behind her were many hundred shells of coconuts which she had sold the shell she would sell to people who would extract the fibre for rope and the shell could be used for making activated carbon.These hundreds of coconut shells also demonstrated how successful she was. I told myself that location matters, true and how much more does "service".

This small roadside coconut woman had set up shop in a village called "Vellai Kall" (White Stone), there were no white stones around but only red earth, no houses in sight, nor any sign of a village closeby but just a long ribbon of black on which vehicles were moving at high speed many of them not even turning to look at her outlet, the occupants busy talking to each other or in thought hurrying to get to their destination.

We had one coconut each and then asked for more, all of us opted for coconuts which had a lot of flesh rather than water, she explained that if there was flesh there would be little water but the water would be sweet, but if one wanted more water than there will not be much flesh and the water may not be as sweet. A lesson for an urban born.

Thamaraikanni (Lotus Woman) was a typical South Indian villager, heavily oiled and long hair, plaited tight with not a single hair out of place in spite of the mild breeze, a mouthful of betel leaves, arcenut and tobacco colouring her mouth deep red.A large nose stud and wearing a thali pointing out that she was married.



When we asked for another helping I noticed the way she cut the coconut, she skillfully held it in her left hand and holding the heavy knife in her right she deftly chopped away huge chunks of the coconut to reveal the top of the shell which she cracked with her knife and then chopped off to reveal the flesh of the coconut. She would then scoop out the exposed flesh and then the it was ready. One could either use a straw (city slicker) or take the coconut to the mouth and drink the water by tilting the nut upwards like it should be done. A coconut would weigh about 2 Kgs each and this on one hand and the heave knife which would weigh another 1.5 Kgs on the other meant that not only was she strong but would be capable of taking care of herself. One has to watch a coconut being cut to be able to appreciate the skill required to carry out this seemingly simple task. I would have chopped my hand off if I had tried to cut one.

After our first helping Thamaraikanni slowly warmed up to the conversation, she explained to us about coconuts, how to choose the right one for our needs, which has more water which more flesh, when the water would be sweet and so on. She told us about her village "Vellaikalu" and in between when she found the conversation funny she would laugh and when she laughed she would show a mouth which was deep red. Her husband was elsewhere working and she was supplementing the family income with this little shop of hers. She was initially guarded in her speech and when she realised that I was just joking around and gathering information because of my curiosity her guard went down and she opened up. She came up with a few repartees which pointed to a certain intelligence a way of talking which was more than common. When I asked her "Evvalavu thenga oru nalukku vippe?" (How many coconuts will you sell a day?) she spread her hands out and said Evvalavu (this much). Then she exclaimed that if you had asked me "Ethana thenga?" then I would have given you number of cocnuts I would sell. According to her Evvalavu meant mass and ethane meant numbers. I did not know this and all my life have been using these two words interchangeably. In fact I wanted her to be right,I felt that I had met a woman form a village who had risen far above her origin and would continue to do so
because of her pleasing personality, patience, hard work, graciousness, simplicity and skills.

Preparing to leave we paid her, her dues and then a truck came along and stopped at her shop. The lone driver got down and sauntered in for his quota of TC water on the road. His name was Ramesh and I told him that if I served him the coconut would be Rs 20 and if Thamaraikanni served him the price would be Rs 15. Thamaraikanni smiled and cut him a coconut, he seemed to be a regular at her store. Ramesh gave us detailed directions to take to get to our intermediate destination for which I was thankful, as he pointed out bad roads and other characteristics on the road that we were to take.

Thamaraikanni serving Ramesh the truck driver

Getting into the car I told Ramesh to watch out as Thamaraikanni would sell him many coocnuts as she had to us. We had drunk so much that we had urinated so much as to have caused a flood. Thamaraikanni had the last laugh when she said "yes! it was so much that the village down the road has been washed away in the flood"

I would have enjoyed spending a little more time in that Coconut Woman's shop but we needed to move on.

April - 2011

Roadside Barber

In the bustling city of Chennai it is not easy to come across people practicing their profession on a roadside, the road just outside Pachaiyappas college which at one time was place of practice to so many fortune tellers, palm readers, parrots who will tell your fortune by drawing a card and allowing their owners to tell you what you will be in years to come now has no one sitting on the pavement, one more profession which is slowly dying because of the pressures of a large and ever growing city and modernization. The population which is now exposed to cultures and fashion trends from across the waters and modern thinking finds itself with less belief in fortune tellers and everyday that goes by only serves to dig a grave deeper for these professions. Today one has to fix an appointment with an astrologer and then meet him in an office, most probably air conditioned and he allows you to record his observation of the moon and stars as regards your horoscope. When was the last you saw the Boom Boom Madu in your locality, the owner of which would come around shouting “Jakkamma sollara” or a man carrying his machine for sharpening your kitchen knives, or the umbrella repair man or vendors pushing arts selling salt? Dying trades, enjoy the sounds while you can.

If you happen to go by Vasu Street off Poonamallee High Road, adjacent to Ega Theatre you will notice in the mornings a barber practicing his profession on the platform just outside Nathella Mansions. Erulappan the roadside barber tells me that he took over this valuable piece of real estate from his Father in Law about 12 years ago and before him his father in law set up shop every morning for over 20 years. The family has been in continuous undisturbed possession of this real estate for over 30 years. Nathella Mansions has been here for so long and most probably Erulappans Father in Law set up shop while the house was being built or maybe even before that time. Yes it is the house of Nathella Jewellers on Vasu Street.

Nathella Mansions

Opposite Erulappan is a tea shop and auto stand. Did these sprout because of Erulappan or he is able to survive because of them?

Roadside Haricut

Erulappan

Erulappan sets up shop at about 7 or thereabouts every morning and goes about his work as he has been doing so for the past so many years. Closeby is Beverly Hotel and opposite the roadside barber is an auto stand. The auto stand provides  a few faithful customers and Erulappan does have a few regularsl who come by as and when they want a shave or a haircut. Erulappan uses a small hand held mirror so his customers can see the result of his work. After the haircut or shave, the customer usually sits around for a chat with others who have come. in fact many of the auto drivers hang around with Erulappan till they are hailed, obviously Erulappan is a good conversationalist and his company is enjoyed by many. With a tea shop opposite and opportunity for custom for the auto rickshaws and so many passers by it must be a good place to have a barber shop. However, Erulappan tells me that this is not so, obviously people feel uncomfortable sitting on a pavement for a haircut or a shave but he does have a few who are regulars, he makes enough to keep the shop going.



When I quizzed him about the people who occupy the Nathella Mansion, Erulappan tells me that he normally does not have enormous problems with them but once in a  way they do come and ask hm to move out but according to him there is no altercation. Erulappan does not fight he just packs his bags and leaves and comes back the next day. He has learnt to survive. I am glad I do not have an Erulappan just outside my house, but then, these trades have to survive continuing to provide Madras with its charm and graciousness.

Anyone for a haircut?

A vagabond I picked up

I was on NH 45 driving from Trichy to Madras and had just paid the toll at the first toll booth, I had not driven 100 Metres when I saw an elderly male putting his thumb up and asking for a lift. I told my self "imagine someone hitchhiking in India" and when i drove past him I noticed that he looked rather gentlemanly. I told myself OK let me get some company and pulled over about 70 metres away from where he stood, the poor guy ran towards me.

Earlier in the morning I had been stopped by the police at Pudukottai asking to check my boot for money (election time and the police were checking for black money doing the rounds) so I asked him if he had any ID, to which he said "Yes a British passport" this seemed OK to me and I asked him to get in.

A few miles later he told me that he was an author and he had written a few books and that I could check him out in Google. He had apparently walked from China to India through Burma and had written a book on his travels through Burma which ended in three months prison in India.

So we got talking and I learned that he had studied at Yale and had graduated in law form Oxford.

In 1989 at the age of 56 he walked from China to India through Burma and came through in spite of great hazards. This travel resulted in a book which was an instant hit, the book is Amongst Insurgents -  Walking through Burma.

At this moment he is hitchhiking in India to get material for his current book "Two Roads" this book will be an account of his travel into India 50 years ago and the same road as he sees it today.

He recounts that his first hike was to Mexico with USD 1.42 in his pocket when he left his father in a Hotel with a note that he was going away to Mexico.

At 76 and with lots of courage, determination and survival skills he is now hitchhiking his way across India and I am glad that our paths crossed and he has made the richer by allowing me to bring him into Madras in my car.

In the few days he spent in Chennai, I learnt so much from him. His spirit, enthusiasm and love for India is so infectious.

While we all dream of being adventurous and wanting to take off with a backpack and a little money to live a part of our life on the road Shelby does it and writes about it. I hope someday our paths will cross once again.

 March 2011

The "Vagabond"Shelby Tucker and I

Stephen's Church - Ooty - Nilgiris

St Stephen's Church - Ooty

Close to the Collector's office in Ooty is St Stephen's Church, large and grand. Built around 1830s the church attracts a large crowd not only for prayers but also some who are interested in history of Ooty and in the Church.

St Stephen's Church - Ooty

My short visit to the Church was interesting, the church like St Mary's in Fort St George has many marble / brass plaques in memory of Britishers. Like may old buildings this church too takes visitors back in time on a short journey. One can sit in the church and imagine being a part of a service or a wedding about a hundred years ago.

In memory of a Freemason.

I find that it is easier to relate to time inside relatively newer buildings such as this, built of brick and mortar and with writings on the wall that can be understood easily. In contrast walking into an ancient Hindu temple in South India which may be over 1500 years old leaves one speechless and most times with little knowledge of the temple's history. The temples will also most probably sport inscriptions in ancient languages which a commoner will not understand. All buildings over 100 years old must have a document stating pertinent and interesting facts about the building, it's history, people associated with the building etc. The authorities in charge of the building must cause such a document to be written in English and in local languages.

Many temples have a small booklet on the temples history which at times is obscure and is meaningless to the reader leaving him in a state of helplessness. If we do not show that we care and take interest we will lose much due to our carelessness. I remember walking through the magnificent Vaitheeswaran Koil which is over a 1000 years old and no one there could tell me how old the temple is or provide more details on the architecture and my search for a book that would give me the details was also not available. The temple Devsthanam also was not helpful.

St. Stephen's Church was built in the 1830s and after the local Britishers who numbered over 100 made a plea for a place of worship. By this time the British had defeated Tipu Sultan and had taken charge of Srirangapatinam.To help bring down the cost of constructing a Church in Ooty, Tipu's palace was ordered to be demolished and the timber and other building materials thus obtained to be brought to Ooty for the construction of the Church. Timber used in the construction of St Stephen's Church comes form Tipu's palace and was brought up through the Sigur ghats which in those days was a tribal track.

The Church has a graveyard in the rear wherein lay interred,
1. Maj. Pitt MacDonald the first Grand Master of the District Grand Lodge of Madras (Freemasons) the grave has been redone by brethren of the Pitt MacDonald Lodge from Madras.

2. John Sullivan' wife

3. Casa Major - is this the same person whose name has been given to a major road in Madras?

and many more. I am sure a proper search would reveal much and maybe study of the Church's records would help in identifying more people in the grave.

The Church and the land appurtenant leave behind an impression of serenity and a certain sense of beauty and I would happily recommend all those who go to Ooty to visit this Church.

St Stephen's Church - Ooty

Altar

Mudhuvars of Anamalai

We were in Valparai (2012) staying in a Chinna Durai's (An Asst. Manager - Periya Durai is the Manager) bungalow. having a great time, the weather was good our host wonderful.

Once we expressed our desire to visit a tribal settlement, our host Ajay Singh wasted no time in making the arrangements. He scheduled a Sunday for the visit and arranged for the required permissions form the forest authorities. We had to go through protected areas to reach the tribal settlement which was located about 20 Kms inside the forest range. We left that Sunday morning soon after breakfast ant down the Anamallais to Kadamparai dam. To reach the dam one has to go through a forest checkpost, where we got the required permissions and then set off on our quest to meet the tribals. The Forest Dept, deputed Krishnan a forest guard to accompany / take us into the restricted areas.

It was a long drive to the tribal settlement area and our host came in his motorcycle while we were in the car with the forest guard. The drive was as is always inside the forests captivating and very enjoyable.

Driving for about 75 minutes we reached the "Kani" or the tribal's settlement area, we walked up hill to the Chieftan's house, he was happy to see us and welcomed us. Arjun the chieftan talked to us about the life of the tribals and their life in the mountains.

We were offered seats just outside his house and facing the mountains, the view was outstanding and we all talked amongst ourselves what it would be like to live here, wake up every morning to step out and see the mountains and take in the fresh mountain air.

Their settlement houses 46 families, only five of the men work outside the settlement and all 5 of them work with the Govt as forest guards or such.

Arjun explained to us that the forest dept. was strict and did not allow them to hunt so their staple food was chicken, e did find this hard to believe as we did not notice any hens in the settlement, maybe they bought the chickens form nearby towns and bought them to the settlement.

June / July is the honey season when they go into the forests to collect honey. The job is arduous and at many times dangerous but from the taste of the honey that he gave us to taste it seems worth the effort and risk.

We noticed solar street lamps in the Kani and asked Arjun if they had electricity to which he explained that though they were just a stone's throw from the Kadamparai hydro electric plant they had no electricity and they had to rely on the solar panels to generate electricity for their homes. They have electricity for about 2 hours if they are lucky with a day of over 9 hours of sunshine to charge their batteries using solar panels.

On the slopes of the mountains they grow lemongrass which is sold for Rs 800 a Kilo to the merchants who come here to buy from them.

By custom, men are allowed to go to nearby towns but must return to the Kani by 8 PM and if the women go they must return by 4 PM. Their favourite place is Pollachi a town at the foot of the hills. If men want to spend the night in the town they have to go in groups and never alone. 

Arjun told us that their tribe is called the "Mudhuvars" as they carry their children all the time on the backs "Mudhugu" in tamil. There are six "kanis" on the hills of the Anamallai range.

When questioned about their marriage customs he said that the first choice is to marry cousins (but restricted to father's sister's children or mother's brother's children) if this is not possible then the choice is to choose a bride within the community. He was not able to recollect anyone marrying against the custom.

Noticing thatches surrounding all huts, I asked him the reason and he said that all their homes are built using mud and during the rainy season the rains lash their homes mercilessly and many time the mud just washes away, to protect the walls they put up these windbreakers.

The village or Kani gets it water from a mountain stream about 200 metres away downhill, all women go to the stream fill their pots with water and walk up the slope to their homes.

Children of the village are provided education in the settlement itself by the Govt till class V after which they have to go to a place called AttaKAtti, more and more children are opting for higher studies than ever before.

Wherever the men work or whatever their work everyone comes back to the settlement, obviously the bonds are such that atleast for a few more years families will continue to live here in the mountains, what will happen when many children get educated and complete college? Yes there were a few from the Kani who were studying in colleges. Where will they work? Obviously there are changes that have to be accepted.

Christian missionaries do visit the village but have not been able to convert anyone into christianity.

So how do these people keep away the wild animals away from their village? Black magic ensures that animals do not come into the village, they have conducted rituals and placed objects around the perimeter of the Kani to keep away wild animals. Yes they do spot leopards, sloth bears, black panthers close by but are never bothered by them. The villagers feel that the number of wild animals have definitely come down as sightings become more difficult.

Arjun the Chieftan is a medicine man and many people in the mountains come to hmi for medicines. He makes his medicines from herbs and plants from the mountains and learnt the science from his father.

The villagers live in one location only 10 years after which they move their houses to another location in the same valley, not far away though. They have been asking the Govt for concrete houses and electricity but there has been no response as yet.

Each family has 2 rooms, one in which they live and the other serves as the kitchen, this may be due to the smells of food which may attract animals, so it may be best to keep the kitchen away from the living quarters. The villagers grow Ragi in the slopes but this is only for their own consumption. The women cook twice a day morning and evening.

Alcohol is not brewed in the village but men can bring in liquor form outside and drink.  

The village was clean no garbage could be seen anywhere. living with nature these people know the importance of keeping things clean and the problems of plastic.

Arjunan - Chieftan of the Mudhuvar village

View from Arjunan's house.

 

Annamalais

Road to the village. Remember this is the main road and from here one has to turn into a protected area for which permission is required from the Forest Dept.