Mudhuvars of Anamalai

We were in Valparai (2012) staying in a Chinna Durai's (An Asst. Manager - Periya Durai is the Manager) bungalow. having a great time, the weather was good our host wonderful.

Once we expressed our desire to visit a tribal settlement, our host Ajay Singh wasted no time in making the arrangements. He scheduled a Sunday for the visit and arranged for the required permissions form the forest authorities. We had to go through protected areas to reach the tribal settlement which was located about 20 Kms inside the forest range. We left that Sunday morning soon after breakfast ant down the Anamallais to Kadamparai dam. To reach the dam one has to go through a forest checkpost, where we got the required permissions and then set off on our quest to meet the tribals. The Forest Dept, deputed Krishnan a forest guard to accompany / take us into the restricted areas.

It was a long drive to the tribal settlement area and our host came in his motorcycle while we were in the car with the forest guard. The drive was as is always inside the forests captivating and very enjoyable.

Driving for about 75 minutes we reached the "Kani" or the tribal's settlement area, we walked up hill to the Chieftan's house, he was happy to see us and welcomed us. Arjun the chieftan talked to us about the life of the tribals and their life in the mountains.

We were offered seats just outside his house and facing the mountains, the view was outstanding and we all talked amongst ourselves what it would be like to live here, wake up every morning to step out and see the mountains and take in the fresh mountain air.

Their settlement houses 46 families, only five of the men work outside the settlement and all 5 of them work with the Govt as forest guards or such.

Arjun explained to us that the forest dept. was strict and did not allow them to hunt so their staple food was chicken, e did find this hard to believe as we did not notice any hens in the settlement, maybe they bought the chickens form nearby towns and bought them to the settlement.

June / July is the honey season when they go into the forests to collect honey. The job is arduous and at many times dangerous but from the taste of the honey that he gave us to taste it seems worth the effort and risk.

We noticed solar street lamps in the Kani and asked Arjun if they had electricity to which he explained that though they were just a stone's throw from the Kadamparai hydro electric plant they had no electricity and they had to rely on the solar panels to generate electricity for their homes. They have electricity for about 2 hours if they are lucky with a day of over 9 hours of sunshine to charge their batteries using solar panels.

On the slopes of the mountains they grow lemongrass which is sold for Rs 800 a Kilo to the merchants who come here to buy from them.

By custom, men are allowed to go to nearby towns but must return to the Kani by 8 PM and if the women go they must return by 4 PM. Their favourite place is Pollachi a town at the foot of the hills. If men want to spend the night in the town they have to go in groups and never alone. 

Arjun told us that their tribe is called the "Mudhuvars" as they carry their children all the time on the backs "Mudhugu" in tamil. There are six "kanis" on the hills of the Anamallai range.

When questioned about their marriage customs he said that the first choice is to marry cousins (but restricted to father's sister's children or mother's brother's children) if this is not possible then the choice is to choose a bride within the community. He was not able to recollect anyone marrying against the custom.

Noticing thatches surrounding all huts, I asked him the reason and he said that all their homes are built using mud and during the rainy season the rains lash their homes mercilessly and many time the mud just washes away, to protect the walls they put up these windbreakers.

The village or Kani gets it water from a mountain stream about 200 metres away downhill, all women go to the stream fill their pots with water and walk up the slope to their homes.

Children of the village are provided education in the settlement itself by the Govt till class V after which they have to go to a place called AttaKAtti, more and more children are opting for higher studies than ever before.

Wherever the men work or whatever their work everyone comes back to the settlement, obviously the bonds are such that atleast for a few more years families will continue to live here in the mountains, what will happen when many children get educated and complete college? Yes there were a few from the Kani who were studying in colleges. Where will they work? Obviously there are changes that have to be accepted.

Christian missionaries do visit the village but have not been able to convert anyone into christianity.

So how do these people keep away the wild animals away from their village? Black magic ensures that animals do not come into the village, they have conducted rituals and placed objects around the perimeter of the Kani to keep away wild animals. Yes they do spot leopards, sloth bears, black panthers close by but are never bothered by them. The villagers feel that the number of wild animals have definitely come down as sightings become more difficult.

Arjun the Chieftan is a medicine man and many people in the mountains come to hmi for medicines. He makes his medicines from herbs and plants from the mountains and learnt the science from his father.

The villagers live in one location only 10 years after which they move their houses to another location in the same valley, not far away though. They have been asking the Govt for concrete houses and electricity but there has been no response as yet.

Each family has 2 rooms, one in which they live and the other serves as the kitchen, this may be due to the smells of food which may attract animals, so it may be best to keep the kitchen away from the living quarters. The villagers grow Ragi in the slopes but this is only for their own consumption. The women cook twice a day morning and evening.

Alcohol is not brewed in the village but men can bring in liquor form outside and drink.  

The village was clean no garbage could be seen anywhere. living with nature these people know the importance of keeping things clean and the problems of plastic.

Arjunan - Chieftan of the Mudhuvar village

View from Arjunan's house.

 

Annamalais

Road to the village. Remember this is the main road and from here one has to turn into a protected area for which permission is required from the Forest Dept.