Roadside Barber

In the bustling city of Chennai it is not easy to come across people practicing their profession on a roadside, the road just outside Pachaiyappas college which at one time was place of practice to so many fortune tellers, palm readers, parrots who will tell your fortune by drawing a card and allowing their owners to tell you what you will be in years to come now has no one sitting on the pavement, one more profession which is slowly dying because of the pressures of a large and ever growing city and modernization. The population which is now exposed to cultures and fashion trends from across the waters and modern thinking finds itself with less belief in fortune tellers and everyday that goes by only serves to dig a grave deeper for these professions. Today one has to fix an appointment with an astrologer and then meet him in an office, most probably air conditioned and he allows you to record his observation of the moon and stars as regards your horoscope. When was the last you saw the Boom Boom Madu in your locality, the owner of which would come around shouting “Jakkamma sollara” or a man carrying his machine for sharpening your kitchen knives, or the umbrella repair man or vendors pushing arts selling salt? Dying trades, enjoy the sounds while you can.

If you happen to go by Vasu Street off Poonamallee High Road, adjacent to Ega Theatre you will notice in the mornings a barber practicing his profession on the platform just outside Nathella Mansions. Erulappan the roadside barber tells me that he took over this valuable piece of real estate from his Father in Law about 12 years ago and before him his father in law set up shop every morning for over 20 years. The family has been in continuous undisturbed possession of this real estate for over 30 years. Nathella Mansions has been here for so long and most probably Erulappans Father in Law set up shop while the house was being built or maybe even before that time. Yes it is the house of Nathella Jewellers on Vasu Street.

Nathella Mansions

Opposite Erulappan is a tea shop and auto stand. Did these sprout because of Erulappan or he is able to survive because of them?

Roadside Haricut

Erulappan

Erulappan sets up shop at about 7 or thereabouts every morning and goes about his work as he has been doing so for the past so many years. Closeby is Beverly Hotel and opposite the roadside barber is an auto stand. The auto stand provides  a few faithful customers and Erulappan does have a few regularsl who come by as and when they want a shave or a haircut. Erulappan uses a small hand held mirror so his customers can see the result of his work. After the haircut or shave, the customer usually sits around for a chat with others who have come. in fact many of the auto drivers hang around with Erulappan till they are hailed, obviously Erulappan is a good conversationalist and his company is enjoyed by many. With a tea shop opposite and opportunity for custom for the auto rickshaws and so many passers by it must be a good place to have a barber shop. However, Erulappan tells me that this is not so, obviously people feel uncomfortable sitting on a pavement for a haircut or a shave but he does have a few who are regulars, he makes enough to keep the shop going.



When I quizzed him about the people who occupy the Nathella Mansion, Erulappan tells me that he normally does not have enormous problems with them but once in a  way they do come and ask hm to move out but according to him there is no altercation. Erulappan does not fight he just packs his bags and leaves and comes back the next day. He has learnt to survive. I am glad I do not have an Erulappan just outside my house, but then, these trades have to survive continuing to provide Madras with its charm and graciousness.

Anyone for a haircut?

A vagabond I picked up

I was on NH 45 driving from Trichy to Madras and had just paid the toll at the first toll booth, I had not driven 100 Metres when I saw an elderly male putting his thumb up and asking for a lift. I told my self "imagine someone hitchhiking in India" and when i drove past him I noticed that he looked rather gentlemanly. I told myself OK let me get some company and pulled over about 70 metres away from where he stood, the poor guy ran towards me.

Earlier in the morning I had been stopped by the police at Pudukottai asking to check my boot for money (election time and the police were checking for black money doing the rounds) so I asked him if he had any ID, to which he said "Yes a British passport" this seemed OK to me and I asked him to get in.

A few miles later he told me that he was an author and he had written a few books and that I could check him out in Google. He had apparently walked from China to India through Burma and had written a book on his travels through Burma which ended in three months prison in India.

So we got talking and I learned that he had studied at Yale and had graduated in law form Oxford.

In 1989 at the age of 56 he walked from China to India through Burma and came through in spite of great hazards. This travel resulted in a book which was an instant hit, the book is Amongst Insurgents -  Walking through Burma.

At this moment he is hitchhiking in India to get material for his current book "Two Roads" this book will be an account of his travel into India 50 years ago and the same road as he sees it today.

He recounts that his first hike was to Mexico with USD 1.42 in his pocket when he left his father in a Hotel with a note that he was going away to Mexico.

At 76 and with lots of courage, determination and survival skills he is now hitchhiking his way across India and I am glad that our paths crossed and he has made the richer by allowing me to bring him into Madras in my car.

In the few days he spent in Chennai, I learnt so much from him. His spirit, enthusiasm and love for India is so infectious.

While we all dream of being adventurous and wanting to take off with a backpack and a little money to live a part of our life on the road Shelby does it and writes about it. I hope someday our paths will cross once again.

 March 2011

The "Vagabond"Shelby Tucker and I

Stephen's Church - Ooty - Nilgiris

St Stephen's Church - Ooty

Close to the Collector's office in Ooty is St Stephen's Church, large and grand. Built around 1830s the church attracts a large crowd not only for prayers but also some who are interested in history of Ooty and in the Church.

St Stephen's Church - Ooty

My short visit to the Church was interesting, the church like St Mary's in Fort St George has many marble / brass plaques in memory of Britishers. Like may old buildings this church too takes visitors back in time on a short journey. One can sit in the church and imagine being a part of a service or a wedding about a hundred years ago.

In memory of a Freemason.

I find that it is easier to relate to time inside relatively newer buildings such as this, built of brick and mortar and with writings on the wall that can be understood easily. In contrast walking into an ancient Hindu temple in South India which may be over 1500 years old leaves one speechless and most times with little knowledge of the temple's history. The temples will also most probably sport inscriptions in ancient languages which a commoner will not understand. All buildings over 100 years old must have a document stating pertinent and interesting facts about the building, it's history, people associated with the building etc. The authorities in charge of the building must cause such a document to be written in English and in local languages.

Many temples have a small booklet on the temples history which at times is obscure and is meaningless to the reader leaving him in a state of helplessness. If we do not show that we care and take interest we will lose much due to our carelessness. I remember walking through the magnificent Vaitheeswaran Koil which is over a 1000 years old and no one there could tell me how old the temple is or provide more details on the architecture and my search for a book that would give me the details was also not available. The temple Devsthanam also was not helpful.

St. Stephen's Church was built in the 1830s and after the local Britishers who numbered over 100 made a plea for a place of worship. By this time the British had defeated Tipu Sultan and had taken charge of Srirangapatinam.To help bring down the cost of constructing a Church in Ooty, Tipu's palace was ordered to be demolished and the timber and other building materials thus obtained to be brought to Ooty for the construction of the Church. Timber used in the construction of St Stephen's Church comes form Tipu's palace and was brought up through the Sigur ghats which in those days was a tribal track.

The Church has a graveyard in the rear wherein lay interred,
1. Maj. Pitt MacDonald the first Grand Master of the District Grand Lodge of Madras (Freemasons) the grave has been redone by brethren of the Pitt MacDonald Lodge from Madras.

2. John Sullivan' wife

3. Casa Major - is this the same person whose name has been given to a major road in Madras?

and many more. I am sure a proper search would reveal much and maybe study of the Church's records would help in identifying more people in the grave.

The Church and the land appurtenant leave behind an impression of serenity and a certain sense of beauty and I would happily recommend all those who go to Ooty to visit this Church.

St Stephen's Church - Ooty

Altar

Mudhuvars of Anamalai

We were in Valparai (2012) staying in a Chinna Durai's (An Asst. Manager - Periya Durai is the Manager) bungalow. having a great time, the weather was good our host wonderful.

Once we expressed our desire to visit a tribal settlement, our host Ajay Singh wasted no time in making the arrangements. He scheduled a Sunday for the visit and arranged for the required permissions form the forest authorities. We had to go through protected areas to reach the tribal settlement which was located about 20 Kms inside the forest range. We left that Sunday morning soon after breakfast ant down the Anamallais to Kadamparai dam. To reach the dam one has to go through a forest checkpost, where we got the required permissions and then set off on our quest to meet the tribals. The Forest Dept, deputed Krishnan a forest guard to accompany / take us into the restricted areas.

It was a long drive to the tribal settlement area and our host came in his motorcycle while we were in the car with the forest guard. The drive was as is always inside the forests captivating and very enjoyable.

Driving for about 75 minutes we reached the "Kani" or the tribal's settlement area, we walked up hill to the Chieftan's house, he was happy to see us and welcomed us. Arjun the chieftan talked to us about the life of the tribals and their life in the mountains.

We were offered seats just outside his house and facing the mountains, the view was outstanding and we all talked amongst ourselves what it would be like to live here, wake up every morning to step out and see the mountains and take in the fresh mountain air.

Their settlement houses 46 families, only five of the men work outside the settlement and all 5 of them work with the Govt as forest guards or such.

Arjun explained to us that the forest dept. was strict and did not allow them to hunt so their staple food was chicken, e did find this hard to believe as we did not notice any hens in the settlement, maybe they bought the chickens form nearby towns and bought them to the settlement.

June / July is the honey season when they go into the forests to collect honey. The job is arduous and at many times dangerous but from the taste of the honey that he gave us to taste it seems worth the effort and risk.

We noticed solar street lamps in the Kani and asked Arjun if they had electricity to which he explained that though they were just a stone's throw from the Kadamparai hydro electric plant they had no electricity and they had to rely on the solar panels to generate electricity for their homes. They have electricity for about 2 hours if they are lucky with a day of over 9 hours of sunshine to charge their batteries using solar panels.

On the slopes of the mountains they grow lemongrass which is sold for Rs 800 a Kilo to the merchants who come here to buy from them.

By custom, men are allowed to go to nearby towns but must return to the Kani by 8 PM and if the women go they must return by 4 PM. Their favourite place is Pollachi a town at the foot of the hills. If men want to spend the night in the town they have to go in groups and never alone. 

Arjun told us that their tribe is called the "Mudhuvars" as they carry their children all the time on the backs "Mudhugu" in tamil. There are six "kanis" on the hills of the Anamallai range.

When questioned about their marriage customs he said that the first choice is to marry cousins (but restricted to father's sister's children or mother's brother's children) if this is not possible then the choice is to choose a bride within the community. He was not able to recollect anyone marrying against the custom.

Noticing thatches surrounding all huts, I asked him the reason and he said that all their homes are built using mud and during the rainy season the rains lash their homes mercilessly and many time the mud just washes away, to protect the walls they put up these windbreakers.

The village or Kani gets it water from a mountain stream about 200 metres away downhill, all women go to the stream fill their pots with water and walk up the slope to their homes.

Children of the village are provided education in the settlement itself by the Govt till class V after which they have to go to a place called AttaKAtti, more and more children are opting for higher studies than ever before.

Wherever the men work or whatever their work everyone comes back to the settlement, obviously the bonds are such that atleast for a few more years families will continue to live here in the mountains, what will happen when many children get educated and complete college? Yes there were a few from the Kani who were studying in colleges. Where will they work? Obviously there are changes that have to be accepted.

Christian missionaries do visit the village but have not been able to convert anyone into christianity.

So how do these people keep away the wild animals away from their village? Black magic ensures that animals do not come into the village, they have conducted rituals and placed objects around the perimeter of the Kani to keep away wild animals. Yes they do spot leopards, sloth bears, black panthers close by but are never bothered by them. The villagers feel that the number of wild animals have definitely come down as sightings become more difficult.

Arjun the Chieftan is a medicine man and many people in the mountains come to hmi for medicines. He makes his medicines from herbs and plants from the mountains and learnt the science from his father.

The villagers live in one location only 10 years after which they move their houses to another location in the same valley, not far away though. They have been asking the Govt for concrete houses and electricity but there has been no response as yet.

Each family has 2 rooms, one in which they live and the other serves as the kitchen, this may be due to the smells of food which may attract animals, so it may be best to keep the kitchen away from the living quarters. The villagers grow Ragi in the slopes but this is only for their own consumption. The women cook twice a day morning and evening.

Alcohol is not brewed in the village but men can bring in liquor form outside and drink.  

The village was clean no garbage could be seen anywhere. living with nature these people know the importance of keeping things clean and the problems of plastic.

Arjunan - Chieftan of the Mudhuvar village

View from Arjunan's house.

 

Annamalais

Road to the village. Remember this is the main road and from here one has to turn into a protected area for which permission is required from the Forest Dept.