28th November 2015 - Udaipur to Baroda

Great roads

Best road between Udaipur and Ahmedabad, gentle curves a delight

Ahmedabad bye ass not so smart too many speed breakers, dirty and too much unruly traffic

Ahmedabad to Baroda expressway great road but no stops for relaxing you start and then do not stop till you reach Baroda no amenities like on the yamuna expressway

Baroda

dinner at Mantap - Hotel express

26th Noveber 2015 - Jaipur to Udaipur

Yesterday we left Agra and started our drive to Delhi we had decided that on our way to Delhi we will drive through Mathura and ten to Brindavan before we hit the Yamuna Expressway.

At Mathura we made it to the Krishna Janma Bhoomi (the prison where Krishna was born) cars are not allowed near the entrance to this shrine so Aanand stayed back in the car trying to find a place to park. Mahalakshmi and I went on and were accosted by a few touts who promised to take us through the VIP gate and give us VIP darshan etc. We brushed them aside and went on, a while later we found that we knew very little about the shrine or how to get inside there were no signs and no information anywhere to guide us. We fell into the hands a of a tout who took us on saying that he will take us in no time through the VIP entrance and when we went there we found that everyone was a VIP and there was a very very long queue waiting to get in. Seeing this he said that he would take us through another entrance at which time we said enough is enough and walked away. On the way out Mahalakshmi asked a policeman the best way to get in and he said all we had to do was wait in the queue and go in and there is no problem at all, in fact the inside is easy to navigate. Not convinced we walked away and while we were walking to the car we noticed that the main gate had opened and people were going in. We rushed and packed our cameras mobiles into my handkerchief handed this over at the safe keeping counter and charged in. In a few minutes we were as there was not much of a crowd at this gate, as it had just opened. We walked over to a shop which accepted to take care of our footwear and once this was done we rushed to see the jail whee Krishna was born. The building was new and was constructed to give one the feeling that he was going into a dungeon and there it was a shrine in the room where krishna was supposed to have been born, whether this is true or not is a big question but what can one do against faith? We saw, we wondered ad were out, back to the shop to pickup our shoes and off we went to the car. The shop which had taken care of our shoes did not take any money for this little service, in fact they flatly refused.

By this time we realised that we were late and would not be able to make it to Brindavan, so we decided to drop the idea of Brindavan and started for Delh, we did stop over at one of the exits for some food.

It took us over 1.5 hours to get away from mathura, the very narrow roads, crowd and the not so helpful GPS conspired and worked against our desire for a fast and easy exit from this town.

Once we hit the Yamuna Express Way we were happy. The very broad roads, no traffic coming from the opposite side enabled us to move on at high speeds, 120 and no need to slow down. We reached Delhi in record time and reached our Hotel The Manor, the hotel is run by the same people who run The Habitat and The Manor boasts of one of India's top class restaurants "Indian Accent" a must for anyone interested in gourmet food.

We left early in the morning and drove down to Jaipur. At Gurgaon we had to stop on the highway for a short while to meet Rtn. Dr Nischol Pandey who was driving there to meet to shake hands with us. We did just that said our goodbyes and went our way. We had booked ourselves into The Jaipur Club, we had stayed there earlier when the rooms had just been renovated and when we checked in yesterday I was shocked, the room was something like one of the Lodge rooms that you see in tamil cinemas close to a railway station? All the soft furnishings were dirty and stained and we would have fallen il had we stayed there. Luckily we found ourselves room at the SMS Taj which was closeby. On the way to our newly found Hotel we stopped over at a Reliance Fresh to buy some snacks, milk, rice and curds - ha ha we make rice for the journey and have curd rice for lunch everyday we travel. When we came out o the store we found that the police had wheel locked the car, again luckily we found their number on the windshield and they came in soon as we called. The Rs 200 that I paid was well worth the trouble that otherwise we would have to go to before we went to our hotel. The hotel was great and the Rajasthani thali we had for dinner was good. We did decide to stay on for another day here as Mahalakshmi was not keeping too well, her cold was bugging her. But, no rooms available. 

We started our journey this morning at about 10AM with a packed breakfast with us. With a packed breakfast and lunch we were set to drive with little time wasted on lunch and breakfast. The breakfast we had in the car to save time and kept going,the light falls early here in the North and I do not want to drive after dusk. 

A few hours after we started and on NH79A I stopped at a roadside Dhaba which caters to lorry drivers for a cup of tea. The dhabba was furnished with Charpoys on which men were sitting and having their breakfast (lunch?) I shall publish the pictures that I took here on my blog http:/mindonedge.blogspot.com

The road was patchy at points and this slowed us down but we did manage to keep a respectable 60Km average through our our trip today.

We stopped for lunch at a Banyan tree on the side of the road and adjacent to which were a few shrines to some hindu gods which I was not able to identify, thanks for some shade and privacy we had a quick lunch and were off in a short while.

A few hours later we were driving through a small town or a village when Mahalakshmi noticed swords being sold on the roadside shops, we pulled over so I could buy one. On inquiry we were told tat peoplebuy these swords for use in religious ceremonies and weddings and the like, the Rajputs are a warrior clan right? We negotiated a price purchased a sharp sword, threw it into the dicky and were off.

Reached Udaipur at 5 PM, checked into the Hotel and then took a Uber to look around. This evening we had dinner at Natraj Dining Hall which serves a phenomenal Rajasthani Thali and in my opinion much better than the ones we get at Rajdhani in Chennai. we had gone looking for some handloom block print shirting material which we did not find but the thali was worth the trouble of having got out of the Hotel this evening.

Tomorrow we look around Udaipur and then we are off to Baroda.

We have covered over 4000 Km on our trip so far and have yet another 1600 or so more to go before we reach our destination - Bangalore.

With so much driving to do there is not much of photography being done. Yes I do use my phone to take the pictures and my trusted very small handy Kodak also comes into use. The only time I used my Nikon DSLR was in Varanasi.

Sometimes I just want to experience all there is around me and not be bothered with photographing it

25th November 2015 - Delhi to Jaipur

Made our rice mixed the curd rice and we were ready for the next leg, into Rajasthan. The hotel was kind enough to have our car cleaned inside and out. When the luggage was loaded into the car the cleanliness was motivating, the insides we ensured was always clean but the outsides we had no control over.

We checked out of our hotel soon after breakfast and we were soon on the highway to Gurgaon, we had agreed to meet a friend on the highway at Gurgaon to shake hands and if we had the time then for a cup of tea, by the time we reached Gurgaon we decided that we had no time for tea, so all we could manage was a hand shake a pat on each others back a photograph to record our meeting and we were off toward Jaipur.

The information we gathered was mixed and we were cautious, where the roads towards Jaipur good or bad? where there a lot of diversions because of a lot of road work going on? We would find out soon. We did, the roads were good, much of the construction work on the highway was complete and we were able to do the stretch in good time.

24th Nov 2015 - Agra - Mathura - Delhi

Agra is a better maintained city than Kanpur, better roads, lesser pollution better discipline on the roads.. maybe we were exposed to the better part of Agra? aybe so because it has more tourist inflow?

Speaking to a few businessmen here the general feeling I get is that the Taj Mahal is more a bane than a fortune, the ban of polluting industries many Kms radius of Taj to protect the monument has not gained favour with them. When they are questioned about the Taj bringing in the tourist, the  answer is that thanks to Agra's proximity to Delhi Agra is only a day tour and not a tourist destination, most tourists come from Delhi to Agra stay here for a few hours and then go back, so it is Delhi which rakes it in ad not Agra. Why I asked did the UP Govt not project Agra as a tourist destination, why have the other tourist interest monuments and events not improved or built, the Yamuna river can be developed for water sports? The Govt could have a dialogue with the military to vacate Agra fort and the army could be given alternate accommodation?

The signages on the roads are in Hindi and they are not strategically placed so a driver without a GPS may find it difficult to move around. We got onto the road to Mathura (NH2) as we wanted to go to see Krishnas Janma Bhoomi and then to Brindavan to the Banke Bhari temple.

We managed to get into Mathura and to the Janma Bhoomi, we were accosted by the many touts there promising moksha if we used their services to visit the temple, we in desperatation as there were not enough signages to show us the way or to give instructions on how to get into the temple(?) asked one of the touts to help, he said that the main gate was closed but would take us to the other gate and take us in, the other gate was very crowded and he said he would take us to yet another gate not feeling good we inquired with a policeman who told us that entry was not difficult and we do not need a tout. We walked from there towards the car thinking that we were not going to be able to make it inside. On the way out we noticed that the Main gate had opened and they were allowing visitors inside, we packed our mobile phones, car keys etc in my handkerchief and handed it over at the safe keep counter and charged in. In about 20 minutes we had seen the prison in whcih Krishna was supposed to have been born and were out. No tout.

However, we were late for Brindavan and therefore decided that lunch at a referred

22nd November 2015 - Varanasi to Kanpur

We had no intention to stop at Kanpur, our original intention was to drive straight from Varanasi to Agra. However, when we realised that it gets dark quite early as winter draws close we thought it better to include one more stop between Agra and Varanasi. Kanpur was the candidate.

Allahabad was on the way to Kanpur but too close to Varanasi to merit a night stop. So Kanpur it was.  The drive from Varanasi to Kanpur was rather uneventful, the roads were good but nothing to write about. The people remain the same the only thing that separates them is the distance, the same careless attitude, whether it be lorries, cars, pedestrians, it is not that they do not care for their lives but the need is to demonstrate courage and arrogance and believe that nothing will happen. So what if a few people lose their lives in trying to prove that they do not care?

The Allahabad Bye Pass is a long one and almost at its end is a bridge over the Sangam.

Kanpur as a city does not impress, it is dirty, crowded and very very dusty and carried on its shoulder the disdain and arrogance and who the heck are you? Attitude. At a traffic signal we heard a loud siren and started moving towards the left to make what we thought would be an ambulance or a police car. What came was neither, it was Mahindra XUV 500 and at the flag post in front of the car was a political party’s flag.

The roads that we had to navigate to our hotel did not leave us with a deep impression of the city, it was much like Varanasi, Gaya and this was no great surprise as we were not expecting much from this city.

Though a Sunday some traffic signals did have lot of traffic and actually in one we had to wait for over 40 minutes to move.

We decided not to move out of the Hotel.

23rd November - Kanpur to Agra

 We had our breakfast packed and commenced our journey much earlier than originally planned.To make things easier for us we decided to see the Taj Mahal and the Agra Fort on the same day we arrive at Agra.

We left behind Kanpur at 7:45 Am and reached Agra at about 1 PM.

On the road we realised there were no more surprises on the road, no more guns, no more pedestrians throwing a threatening glance at you, no more very rash driving.

While entering Agra we contacted a member of the HVK group on facebook who was a great help. He told us road that we could take which not be crowded and with less traffic we did save a bit of time. He had arranged for a local guide who would take us to the Taj and Fort. Once we checked into the Hotel we went off for lunch at the Dasaprakash and then went to the Taj, The VIP car park has capacity for a large number of cars ad one can easily find space. As vehicles are not allowed close to the monument one has to take a battery operated bus or cart to the entrance the cost is either Rs10 or Rs20.

As was expected the Taj left us in awe and though tired we were happy to spend a little extra time walking around. The fort was given a miss as we were told tat the Military was in occupation of the Fort ad that only a small portion was open to visitors. Back to the Hotel and some rest.

Later in the evening we went to the Agra Club to meet up with Sanjeev who had helped us with directions and arrangements for visiting the Taj Mahal. He went to a bit of trouble to guide us on our journey the next day through Mathura and Vrindavan and on to Delhi. A fine guy.

21st November - Varanasi

We were up at 5 AM and got ready as Dibesh had said that he will come to fetch us at 5:30, the plan was to go to the Ghats again for the morning Ganga Aarthi and then on a boat ride to witness the sunrise while we go along the banks of the Ganges viewing the many ghats along the river. Then we are to get off at the Manikarnika Ghat (cremation ghat) and walk to the Kasi Viswanathar temple.

There is so much to see and experience in this ancient city and it would appropriate to spare a few days here to ensure a complete experience.

The boat ride over we started walking up the Manikarnika ghats and were told that photography is not allowed in the cremation ghats, so we put our cameras away and got onto the narrow lanes that make Varanasi. The many narrow lanes and the crowd and the very hig securoty levels at the temple made it a harrowing and claustrophobic experience. A cup of tea for each of us served in Kullads helped just before we walked into the temple. The temple sanctun sanctorum is a small basin of about 6 feet diameter in which is a lingam, to which the millions who visit the temple pray. We poured the mug of milk that we had purchased for this purpose said our prayers and moved and this before we were pushed away by force to make way for others.

After breakfast at the Hotel we took an auto and went off in search of Aghoris, however we did not find any but did visit the Keenaram Babus ashram for Aghoris, after the Ashram we went to another Ashramkashi Mumkshu Bhavan Sabha at Assi, the elderly from various parts of India come here and wait till they die. The elders are taken care of well till their time comes.

Our next stop was the Harishchandra Ghats, another cremation ghats where we saw a couple of bodies being cremated, the amount of firewood that is used in the ghats is amazing. Most people use the traditional method of cremation rather than the electric crematorium.

Ganga Mahotsav and Dev Deepavali commence tomorrow in varanasi and to join in on the celebrations here over 200000 people I am told have come into Varanasi. No hotel rooms are available and the rush is great, this also means that the ghats will have large numbers of people. The highlight of the festival is on the last day, when more than a million clay lamps are floated down the river at dusk amidst chanting of Vedic hymns as part of Dev Deepavali.

Clay pots eing sold at Harishchandra ghats for the last rites to be carried out before cremation

Shuvkumar Chouhan our Auto driver

A common sign in Varanasi

An ashram in Varanasi to which the elderly from many parts of India and wait here to die.

Tea in Kullad just outside the Kasi Viswanathar temple

Lane in Varanasi